Charente Maritime – beautiful beaches and so much more
Taking its name from the Charente River and the coastal area, the Charente Maritime is best known for its many miles (nearly 300) of sandy beaches with charming islands, picturesque towns and villages, and fantastic food. It is considered the second sunniest place in France (only the sweltering Mediterranean coast beats it) with over 2,000 hours of sunshine per year.
The coast stretches from the salt marshes and oyster beds in the north to the Gironde estuary near Bordeaux in the south. La Rochelle is the ‘capital’ of the Charente Maritime. Here, you can enjoy fabulous food at one of the many quayside restaurants or just sit at one of the bars and people watch. The harbour entrance is still dominated by 3 Tours (towers) that guard the harbour and there is a maze of 17th and 18th century streets through the old town which is now mainly pedestrianised. A short walk takes you to the Aquarium and modern marina and beach at Port de Minimes. Moving down the coast the next major town is Rochefort and the mouth of Charente River. This old naval town was an important arsenal and dockyard in France during the 17th Century (not least to protect the coast from the English!). The town has the last transporter bridge in France, the Royal Ropeworks and the replica of the 18th Century frigate Hermione (currently on sea trials before her maiden voyage to America). Royan at the mouth of the Gironde estuary was once a town for the French bourgeoisie. It was bombed heavily during the Second World War and is now known for its modernist architecture and wide boulevards with excellent beaches. All along the coast you have many smaller resorts; Chatelaillon Plage, Fouras, La Palmyre and the Cote Sauvage, St-Palais-sur-Mer and St-Georges-de-Didonne to name just a few. Just off the coast are the four islands, each known for their own personality. The Ile de Re has beautiful sandy beaches and villages of whitewashed cottages. This is where the Parisians come to stay and play. The Ile d’Oleron is France’s 2nd largest island and again has many sandy beaches. Cars aren’t permitted on the Ile d’Aix, but it’s easy to explore by foot or bike. The tiny Ile Madame is only accessible during low tide via a narrow causeway which adds to the adventure of exploring the island.
Move inland and there are plenty of hidden gems of towns and villages as you travel through pretty countryside of rolling hills dotted with vineyards and, at the right time of year, fields of sunflowers. There are many hiking pathways, the most renowned of which being Le Chemin de St-Jacques-de-Compostelle which passes through many of the towns in the area. Saintes on the river Charente has medieval houses and you can wander the narrow streets of the old town with its chic shops and array of restaurants and cafes. The ruins of the Roman amphitheatre are used during the summer to house concerts and shows – well worth a view. There are river trips along the Charente, some with meals included. St. Jean d’Angely has kept its medieval charm with cobbled streets and half timbered houses. The Abbaye Royale was originally constructed in 817, but has never been finished and was reputedly to house the skull of John the Baptist. The town has a bustling town centre, with one of the best local markets. Flowing through the town is the Boutonne River with a picturesque lake for fishing with pedalos and canoes for hire. Another small market town on Le Chemin de St-Jacques-de-Compostelle is Aulnay de Saintonge with the 12th Century Church of Saint-Pierre d'Aulnay dominating the skyline and which is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Sunday food market in the town centre is full of local produce and a great place to catch-up with friends in the local cafes. Other popular towns and villages in the area include; Surgeres, Matha, St. Savinien, Pons and Jonzac to name a few, along with Chateaux and Romanesque churches. The Marais Poitevin, known as La Venise Verte (Green Venice) is a unique natural environment of marshes and waterways on the Charente Maritime/Deux-Sèvres border, which is best explored by ‘barque’ (a flat-bottomed boat), on foot or bike.
Whether you’re looking to purchase a permanent or holiday home, one of the main things to consider is ease of access to and from the UK; there are several airports serviced by the low-cost airlines with short commutes to most parts of the UK. Car travel is also a viable option with St. Malo, Cherbourg, Caen and Le Havre ferry ports all about 5 hours from the area – you can leave the boat in the morning and be here for a late lunch! Or why not let the train take the strain, catch the Eurostar and then the TGV from Paris or Lille to Surgeres or La Rochelle.
Not surprisingly, with such a long coastline fantastic seafood is a specialty of the region, especially the local Marenne-Oléron oysters and buchot mussels. I love to accompany my moules-frites with a great bottle of the local Vin de Pays Charentais. If you visit one of the many food markets then you will see an abundance of local produce; Isle de Re potatoes, Charentaise melons, strawberries, goats cheese, Galette Charentaise the list goes on. Moreover the famous cognac is produced here. The major cognac houses of Martell, Hennessy and Remy Martin all offer guided tours to reveal the production process and includes a tasting! You can explore the area stopping of at vineyards, distilleries and excellent restaurants. The less well known Pineau des Charentes is a flavoursome aperitif that was first produced because of a mistake by a cognac producer who unknowingly mixed grape juice into a barrel of cognac. It can be drunk on its own or I prefer it as a long cool drink with a mixer and ice.
The climate is favourable most of the year. Summers tend to be sunny with temperatures around 30°C and in winter it can get down to -5°C overnight inland. However rainfall is normally low and with clear blue skies during the day, we’ve often had lunch outside in October and February.
Property Market
There are several differing styles in the Charente Maritime; the popular Charentaise, tends to be a symmetrical rectangular building, stone-built (with exposed stone inside), exposed beams and a Charentaise fireplace. The Maison de Maitre (Masters House) are large properties with spacious rooms generally surrounded by land. Often located in the countryside, they offer a beautiful view on the plain and meadow. Farmhouses with large outbuildings such as barns and stables. are usually constructed of stone with exposed beams and old fireplaces and are interesting properties to set up a Bed and Breakfast or Gites. There are still old wine warehouses and barns available to be converted, but it is getting more difficult to find ones in good condition.
Property prices have, as elsewhere, dropped in recent years, but pricing is now fairly stable. Obviously the further towards the coast you go the more expensive it becomes, but move just inland and you tend to ‘get more for your money’. For example, on the market currently is a family home with two gites in about an acre of gardens bordered by a river for just 280,000€. If you’re looking for a holiday home we currently have a 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom cottage with a courtyard within walking distance of commerce for 139,000€. Seeking to run a B&B or hotel; we have a 10 bedroom (all en-suite) 18th Century hotel with owners’ apartment in a popular tourist area. The property is in excellent condition throughout with many original features kept; Charentaise fireplaces, and exposed stone and beams and is on the market for 930,000€ for the property and business. Elsewhere, in a small village is a renovated ‘Maison de Maitre’ with 8 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms and an attached gite and other outbuildings on about an acre. It is on the market for 340,000€.
So, to summarise, if you want sandy beaches, varied countryside, picturesque villages, a good climate and ease of access this part of France could be just what you’re looking for…come take a look.
Roger Titchener
+33 5 65 70 10 49