Bordeaux is reknowned all around the world for its wine, with famous appellations including Pessac Léognan, Pomerol, Pauillac, St Emilion, Fronsac and many others. Once you pass the border of the Gironde, you enter into a world of grapes and vineyards. An entire department dedicated to wine with properties of all size, from the magnificent castle surrounded by thousands of acres to the small property with only a few acres. Wine châteaux tours are a real experience and tasting classes are very popular.
The best way to appreciate a good wine is with a good meal. And gastronomy is another speciality of the region. The main products used in the Gironde are seafood with oysters from Arcachon, Lamprey and shad from the Gironde estuary but also beef meat with the Bœuf de Bazas which is a real treat for meat lovers. With the Gers being close by, foie gras is also very present.
Is there more than food and wine in Gironde ?
The city of Bordeaux has a stunning architecture which makes it one of the most beautiful cities in France (Unesco’s world heritage site since 2007). The Garonne with its changing metallic colours and lovely riverbanks that have been totally restaured is the heart of the city. Bordeaux is also a great place for shops, markets, restaurants, bars and museums. It is sophisticated and laid-back at the same time. And last but not least, it benefits of a warm and sunny weather. In fact, it feels like you’re always on holiday. Maybe this is why it has been recently elected as favorite city by the French workers.
At weekends, one of the favourite destination for the locals is Bassin d’Arcachon where the calm of the Bassin so close from the fury of the ocean creates a particularly sought after holiday spot. South of the bassin is Dune du Pyla, the highest sand dune in Europe offering a magnificent view. North is Lacanau Ocean, a surfer’s paradise surrounded by forest and sand dunes.
Houses near the ocean are often modern, or have a typical Arcachon style and houses closer to Bordeaux are often recent builds. In both cases, sales prices are quite high however Inland, prices are much more reasonable, there are more old houses. Some of them restored, others waiting to be.
Because I live north of Bordeaux, half way to Saint-Emilion, I decided to focus on Northern Gironde and Entre deux mers. Driving around the countryside, I discovered a territory of ancient villages, bastide towns, and castles among beautiful landscapes.
The main type of property is called « Girondine». It’s a flat fronted stone house with strong symmetry. Stone farmhouses can also be found. They often have wine cellars or barns attached allowing for interesting extensions. Stone walls, beams, floor tiles and fireplaces create a comfortable and stylish interior.
The Gironde department is a land of waters. Atlantic Ocean on the West, river Dordogne to the north and river Garonne south with many smaller rivers in between.
The Dordogne and Garonne rivers met at Bec d’Ambès, north of Bordeaux and meet at the Gironde which is the largest estuary in Europe flowing into the ocean. It is also the less polluted and is home to all kinds of fish : shad and sea lamprey, eels … Sturgeons have always been present and caviar was produced since early 20th century. Sturgeon is a protected species and in the 80’s local producers started farm breeding Acipenser Baeri, a Siberian sturgeon, with excellent results. Production of caviar in Aquitaine was 15 t in 2013, with nearly half of it exported. Estuary and rivers are navigable and it is common to see enormous cruise boats in Bordeaux.
On the right bank of the Estuaire Blaye with its impressive 17th century fortress and Bourg sur Gironde are perfect examples of local architectural style at its best. Both towns date back to the romans and a few vestiges remain to remember this heritage. Almost all buildings are made of white cut stone or moellons (cemented or not) with curved tiles roofs
This part of the estuary also benefits of beautiful landscape and scenaries. La route de la Corniche is absolutely charming with its lovely houses with flowery gardens boarding the river and its troglodytes houses carved into the white rock.
Wines in the Bourg district are of very good quality, as good as many Bordeaux wines.
Heading west let’s stop in Libourne. On the confluence of Dordogne and Isle rivers this beautiful Girondine bastide town reveals an impressive central square with buildings dating back to 15th century. The square hosts one of the best markets in the area. It offers delicacies from many producers coming from neighbouring departments and offers top quality food. A great place not to miss on Sunday mornings.
Libourne is surrounded by the most beautiful landscaped vineyards around Bordeaux.
Fronsac (AOC Fronsac and Canon Fronsac), with hillsides overlooking the Dordogne. Castles spread in the landscape, some of them very impressive, other smaller and full of charm.
Beautiful houses stand on the banks of both Dordogne and l’Isle rivers.
in Autumn, at St Pardon, not far from Libourne in direction of Bordeaux, one can watch the Mascaret, a impressive tidal wave set occuring every 12 hours and consisting of 5 to 10 waves very close together. It moves faster but breaks slower than ocean waves. Around St Pardon rides of 1 km are common. You can have 30 people surfing the same wave. It brings surf fans from all over the world. Mascaret this year is on 12 and 13 September. It is always a convivial moment, with music, wine tasting and food market.
North west of Libourne, stands Saint-Emilion an ancient city perfectly preserved that dates back to the Middle ages. Part of UNESCO world heritage, perched on a limestone hill overlooking acres of some of the best vineyards ever. A visit to the city is always charming and terribly pleasant. Walking or cycling in and around Saint-Emilion allows to discover the magic of its narrow roads, the troglodyte church, the broad view. And beyond the numerous Châteaux and Maisons de Maître spread in the vines.
Between the rivers Dordogne and Garonne, l’Entre-deux-Mers is a region of vineyards and arbored hills with ancient villages and amazing bastide towns created by English kings. Monségur was created in 1265 by Eléonore de Provence wife to Henri III. Créon was created in 1315 by Amaury de Craon, English seneschal. Sauveterre de Guyenne, created in 1281 by Edouard I changed from French to English property 10 times during the 100 years war.
Norman churches and abbeys are also present. If you drive by Saint Ferme, you will be stunned by the 11th century Benedictine abbey. Up to 150 monks used to live there. People would stop by on their way to St Jacques de Compostelle. In 1564, in the middle of the religion war between protestants and catholics, the monks and inhabitants of the village were killed. The abbey was partly destroyed and despite the efforts of a few monks, it never recovered. Today, it is an outstanding monument open to visitors.
With magnicent landscape and architectural heritage Entre-deux-Mers is definitely a superb region to visit and live. Bergerac and Bordeaux airports are at less than 1 hour drive. Worth checking out !
Housing market is still down except in and immediately around Bordeaux and in Arcachon.
Other places see their sales prices decreasing as does the number of transactions. Interest rates have never been so low. It is a perfect time to buy.